Tussar is silk with a difference: wild, textured, and naturally golden. Here is where a tussar silk saree comes from, and how to spot a genuine one.

Where does a tussar silk saree come from?

Tussar silk comes from wild silkworms, not the cultivated ones that produce mulberry silk. A tussar silk saree is woven from yarn reeled from cocoons of the Antheraea silkworm, which feeds on forest trees. The silk is made in eastern and central India, including Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Bihar, Odisha, and West Bengal, and Bhagalpur in Bihar is one of its best-known weaving centres.

Wild silk, with a natural gold

Tussar is coarser and more textured than mulberry silk, with a natural golden, honey, or beige colour. It has a soft, matte sheen instead of a glossy one, and a slightly rough, slubbed feel, especially in the rougher type often called ghicha. A tussar silk saree is also lighter and cooler to wear than a heavy silk, which makes it a good choice for warm weather and long days.

The natural colour takes dyes well, so tussar comes in earthy neutrals as well as strong colours, often with hand-painted, block-printed, or embroidered designs.

Easy elegance, day to evening

A tussar silk saree has a relaxed, handsome look. It suits office days, daytime festivals, and family functions, and it pairs well with simple gold or oxidised silver jewellery. Its natural texture works best with a clean, contrast blouse, and our blouse designs guide explains the choices. If you wear it for work, our guide to wearing a saree to work explains pinning and comfort.

Checks and a rough price

Look for the natural, slightly uneven texture and the soft, matte sheen. A very smooth, glossy, perfectly even “tussar” is more likely to be a different fibre. Check the colour: natural tussar is a warm golden or beige, not a bright white. As a rough guide, a handloom tussar silk saree costs from around ₹4,000 to ₹15,000, and finer, painted, or embroidered pieces cost more. These are rough ranges, not a price list. A very low price points to a blend or an imitation. Our handloom saree price guide and guide to real handloom versus fake cover the signs.

Looking after wild silk

Dry clean a tussar silk saree, especially if it is painted or embroidered. Keep it out of direct sunlight, which can fade the natural colour, and store it folded in soft muslin. Avoid harsh perfumes and sprays near the silk.

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