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The Craft · 12 types of Indian handloom weaves, explained
Know your
Indian handloom.
Wear it well.
A short, honest field guide to the different types of handloom weaves and prints across India — twelve weaves of India we work with most: what they are, where they come from, how they’re made, and what to expect when you wear them.
New to handloom? Start with our guide to the types of handloom sarees.
10-minute read · Last updated September 2026
First, the foundation
Handloom or powerloom?
Handloom · हथकरघा
Woven by a person, on a wooden loom.
A weaver sits at a pit-loom or frame-loom and physically passes the shuttle through the warp, treadle by treadle. One weaver, one loom, one Indian handloom saree at a time. A six-yard handloom saree takes anywhere from 3 days to 6 months, depending on the weave.
You can tell because…
- Slight irregularities in the weave — the human hand
- The reverse looks as deliberate as the front
- Selvedge edges are clean and woven, not cut
- Carries the India Handloom Mark or a GI tag
- Costs more — because it took longer
Powerloom · विद्युत करघा
Woven by an electric-motor loom.
Same warp-and-weft principle — but mechanised. One operator can run several looms. A powerloom saree takes 30 minutes to a few hours. Faster, cheaper, more uniform — but the cloth has none of the soul of an Indian handloom weave, and the weaver becomes a machine-minder.
Not inherently bad…
- Makes the everyday saree affordable for millions
- Identical pattern repeats — useful for uniforms, drapes
- Becomes dishonest when sold as handloom at handloom prices
- ~95% of “Benarasi” sold online is powerloom
- How to spot: too-perfect repeat, stiff selvedge, low price
“At Teevra, every piece is an Indian handloom weave unless we explicitly say otherwise. We will tell you. We will not pretend.”
02 — The index
Twelve Indian handloom weaves worth knowing.
The different types of handloom weaves and prints of India, listed in the order we most often recommend them — by occasion, climate, and price band.
01
Benarasi
Varanasi
02
Kanjivaram
Kanchipuram
03
Jamdani
Bengal
04
Patola
Patan
05
Mangalgiri
Mangalagiri
06
Chanderi
Chanderi
07
Kantha
West Bengal
08
Ajrakh
Kachchh
09
Bandhani
Bhuj
10
Leheriya
Jaipur
11
Kalamkari
Srikalahasti
12
Bagru
Bagru
Brocade silk · Indian handloom weave
Varanasi · Uttar Pradesh
Benarasi
Varanasi · Uttar Pradesh
The empress of Indian handloom weaves. Mughal-era brocades with intricate gold and silver zari woven on silk pit-looms in Varanasi. One six-yard handloom saree can take 15 days to two months on the loom.
+ Strengths
- Iconic for weddings, trousseau, and inheritance pieces
- Gold/silver zari only deepens with age
- GI-tagged · authenticity verifiable
− Watch-outs
- Heavy — 800g–1.2kg
- Dry-clean only
- Powerloom Benarasis are widespread; check the loom
Care
Wrap in muslin, store flat, refold every 6 months. Never hang.
Mulberry silk · Indian handloom weave
Kanchipuram · Tamil Nadu
Kanjivaram
Kanchipuram · Tamil Nadu
Temple silks of South India. Body and border are woven separately on three shuttles, then interlocked at the seam — a technique called korvai that no powerloom can replicate. One of the most enduring Indian handloom weaves in existence.
+ Strengths
- Exceptionally durable — passes through generations
- Contrast borders are structurally distinct, never printed
- Rich, deep dyes on heavy mulberry silk
− Watch-outs
- Stiff for first few wears
- Heavy
- True korvai Kanjivarams start ₹25k+
Care
Dry-clean. Store with neem leaves to deter moths.
Fine cotton or muslin · Indian handloom weave
Bengal · West Bengal
Jamdani
Bengal · West Bengal
The most labour-intensive Indian handloom weave in the world. Motifs are added by hand, thread by thread, on the loom itself — never embroidered. UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
+ Strengths
- Featherlight — drapes like air
- Each piece is mathematically unique
- Cooling for Indian summers
− Watch-outs
- Fragile — snag-prone
- Hand-wash only, gentle iron
- Authentic Jamdani is slow to produce; copies abound
Care
Hand-wash cold, line-dry in shade, iron on reverse.
Double-ikat silk · Indian handloom weave
Patan · Gujarat
Patola
Patan · Gujarat
Double-ikat means both warp AND weft are tie-dyed before weaving — so the pattern emerges only as the loom marries them. Made by three Salvi families in Patan. One of the rarest Indian handloom weaves on earth. One saree takes 6 months.
+ Strengths
- Pattern is identical front and back
- Considered the most technically demanding weave on Earth
- Investment piece — appreciates
− Watch-outs
- Genuine Patan Patolas start ₹2–8 lakh
- Rajkot Patolas (single-ikat) are vastly cheaper but distinct
- Long wait-list
Care
Dry-clean only. Store flat, away from light.
Cotton with zari border · Indian handloom weave
Mangalagiri · Andhra Pradesh
Mangalgiri
Mangalagiri · Andhra Pradesh
Crisp pit-loom cotton with a clean zari border (the Nizam border) and no pallu motifs. The weekday Indian handloom saree of South Indian women — quiet, sharp, dignified, and one of the most affordable true handlooms available.
+ Strengths
- Affordable handloom — ₹2,500 onwards
- Genuinely cool in heat
- Pairs with any blouse
− Watch-outs
- Slightly stiff at first; softens over washes
- Zari can tarnish if stored damp
- Less ornate — not for grand occasions
Care
Hand-wash or gentle machine wash. Iron damp.
Silk-cotton blend · Indian handloom weave
Chanderi · Madhya Pradesh
Chanderi
Chanderi · Madhya Pradesh
A sheer, lightweight Indian handloom weave blending silk warp and cotton weft (or pure silk in modern variants). Glossy without being heavy. Royal patronage from the Scindia dynasty for centuries.
+ Strengths
- Drapes elegantly even on warmer days
- Subtle sheen — photographs beautifully
- Mid-priced handloom (₹4–12k)
− Watch-outs
- Sheer — usually needs a slip
- Snag-prone like all fine silks
- Dry-clean preferred
Care
Dry-clean. If hand-washing, use cold water + mild soap, no wringing.
Hand-embroidered cotton/silk
West Bengal · Bangladesh
Kantha
West Bengal · Bangladesh
Not a weave — an embroidery tradition. Layers of old saris are quilted together with running stitches, the needlework itself making the pattern. The original slow-fashion, and one of Bengal’s most beloved Indian handloom traditions.
+ Strengths
- Each piece is one-of-one
- Soft, lived-in feel from day one
- Rooted in a recycling tradition — sustainable
− Watch-outs
- Variable thickness can affect drape
- Hand-stitches need careful washing
- Mass-produced versions skip the layering
Care
Hand-wash separately. Iron on low.
Hand-block-printed cotton/silk
Kachchh · Gujarat · Sindh
Ajrakh
Kachchh · Gujarat · Sindh
Not a weave — a 16-step natural-dye block-printing process using indigo, madder, and pomegranate. Each colour is a separate printing pass. Dr Ismail Khatri’s family in Bhuj are the keepers of this Indian handloom printing tradition.
+ Strengths
- Natural dyes age beautifully
- Geometric motifs are unmistakable
- Skin-friendly — no chemical residue
− Watch-outs
- Initial dye bleed in first 2–3 washes (normal)
- Synthetic ajrakh prints are everywhere — check dye depth on the back
- Sun-fading possible if dried in direct light
Care
First wash separate, cold water + salt. Line-dry in shade.
Tie-dye on cotton/silk
Bhuj · Gujarat · Rajasthan
Bandhani
Bhuj · Gujarat · Rajasthan
Tie-dye elevated to art. Tens of thousands of tiny knots are tied by hand before dyeing — the undisturbed dots forming the pattern. Khatri community women do the tying. A deeply auspicious Indian handloom tradition for weddings and festivals.
+ Strengths
- Deeply auspicious — gifted at weddings, monsoon festivals
- Distinct dotted texture is impossible to fake at high quality
- Lightweight
− Watch-outs
- Knot density varies wildly between pieces — count them
- Cheap bandhani uses screen-printed dots
- Dyes can run if not set properly
Care
Hand-wash separately first 3 times. Avoid wringing.
Wave tie-dye on georgette/cotton
Jaipur · Jodhpur · Rajasthan
Leheriya
Jaipur · Jodhpur · Rajasthan
“Leher” means wave. The fabric is rolled diagonally and tied at intervals, then dyed — producing diagonal stripes after unrolling. A festive Indian handloom tradition traditionally worn during Teej and monsoon festivals.
+ Strengths
- Joyful, festive palette
- Lightweight georgette versions perfect for Indian summer
- Easy to spot authentic vs printed
− Watch-outs
- Synthetic versions on chiffon are widespread
- Can fade with harsh detergent
- Tying patterns are seasonal — not all available year-round
Care
Hand-wash cold, separately. Air-dry flat.
Hand-painted/block-printed cotton
Srikalahasti · Machilipatnam · AP
Kalamkari
Srikalahasti · Machilipatnam · Andhra Pradesh
Two distinct Indian handloom art schools: Srikalahasti uses a “kalam” (pen) for hand-painted mythological narratives; Machilipatnam uses wooden blocks with vegetable dyes. Both are 23-step processes using only natural dyes.
+ Strengths
- Storytelling fabric — each panel depicts a scene
- All-natural dyes, including iron filings + jaggery
- Increasingly collectible
− Watch-outs
- Genuine pen-Kalamkari is rare and pricey
- Synthetic block-Kalamkari floods the market
- Dyes need 2–3 set washes before stable
Care
Cold hand-wash. Avoid direct sunlight when drying.
Mud-resist block print
Bagru · Rajasthan
Bagru
Bagru · Rajasthan
Hand-blocked using fermented mud-paste resists, then dyed with indigo, madder, and turmeric. The mud is what creates the soft, slightly faded look — chemical prints can’t replicate it. One of Rajasthan’s most honest Indian handloom printing traditions.
+ Strengths
- Unmistakable earthy palette
- Lightweight cotton — everyday wear
- Affordable handcraft (₹1,500 onwards)
− Watch-outs
- Mud-resist gives slight irregularity (this is a feature, not a flaw)
- Bagru-style screen prints are common imposters
- Initial colour bleed
Care
Cold hand-wash. Iron on reverse.
Common questions
Types of handloom, quickly answered.
What are the main types of handloom sarees in India?
The twelve weaves covered on this page fall into four broad groups: woven silks (Benarasi, Kanjivaram, Patola), fine cotton and silk-cotton weaves (Jamdani, Chanderi, Mangalgiri), hand-dyed and hand-printed cloth (Bandhani, Leheriya, Ajrakh, Bagru, Kalamkari), and hand embroidery (Kantha).
How do I know if a saree is handloom or powerloom?
Machines make perfectly uniform cloth; hands leave small, honest variations. Our guide on telling real handloom from fake walks through the checks, and each weave guide below lists the tells for that specific weave.
Which handloom weaves are best for everyday wear?
Lightweight cottons and silk-cottons — Mangalgiri, Chanderi, Bagru, and Ajrakh — are the easiest to wear through a full day. See how to wear a saree to work for the drape.
Which handloom weaves suit weddings?
The heavier silks — Benarasi, Kanjivaram, and Patola — are the traditional wedding choices, while Bandhani is considered auspicious for new beginnings. Our wedding season guide goes function by function.
How much should a genuine handloom saree cost?
It ranges from a few thousand rupees for a genuine Mangalgiri or Bagru to several lakhs for a true double-ikat Patan Patola. The handloom saree price guide sets out what each weave should cost against its imitations.
How do I tell similar prints and tie-dyes apart?
Start with our side-by-side comparisons: Ajrakh vs Bagru and Bandhani vs Leheriya.
Now — apply it
You know the Indian handloom.
Now find yours.
Not in this list? Write to us. We will find the looms to find it.